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		<title>Gardening with Straw Bales</title>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 01 Aug 2013 16:48:28 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[DYI]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[diy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[garden]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[straw]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[straw bale]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[straw bale gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[straw bales]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[techniques]]></category>
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					<description><![CDATA[<p>Gardening with straw bales is like container gardening except that the container itself is compostable and provides the nutrients necessary for plant growth. With almost no work straw bales easily grow lettuce, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, squash or zucchini and beans. Straw bale gardens are less expensive  than raised beds, can be placed anywhere  that gets sun 8 hours a day, can be tended from a chair for those with physical disabilities and work well for those who have poor or [&#8230;]</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://www.growrealfood.com/gardening-with-straw-bales/">Gardening with Straw Bales</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.growrealfood.com">Grow Real Food — Organic Gardening, Homesteading &amp; Real Food Recipes</a>.</p>
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										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong> <a href="http://www.growrealfood.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/strawbalegarden.jpg" target="_blank"><img fetchpriority="high" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-323 alignleft" alt="Straw Bale Garden" src="http://www.growrealfood.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/strawbalegarden-300x225.jpg" width="300" height="225" srcset="https://www.growrealfood.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/strawbalegarden-300x225.jpg 300w, https://www.growrealfood.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/strawbalegarden-600x450.jpg 600w, https://www.growrealfood.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/strawbalegarden.jpg 1024w" sizes="(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /></a></strong>Gardening with straw bales is like container gardening except that the container itself is compostable and provides the nutrients necessary for plant growth. With almost no work straw bales easily grow lettuce, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, squash or zucchini and beans. Straw bale gardens are less expensive  than raised beds, can be placed anywhere  that gets sun 8 hours a day, can be tended from a chair for those with physical disabilities and work well for those who have poor or contaminated soil.</p>
<p>All you need for your garden are straw bales (not hay), newspaper to go underneath the bales for weed control, fertilizer for conditioning, some potting soil and a trowel for making planting holes. A soaker hose on a timer placed on top will come in handy since the hardest task is to remember to water daily.</p>
<p>To make the garden, place the bales with the cut end of the straw facing up. A couple of weeks before planting begin the composting process by watering the bales daily. To speed the process, on days 3 to 7 sprinkle ½ cup urea (46-0-0) over the surface. Cut this back to ¼ cup on days 7 to 9. A good organic alternative to urea is blood meal. Keep the bales damp on succeeding days. They are ready to plant when you can stick your hand into the middle of the bale and it has cooled to body temperature.</p>
<p>To plant seedlings, simply make a hole, tuck the plant in and fill the extra space with a little potting soil. To plant seeds, place a small layer of potting mix on top of the bale and plant the seeds according to packet directions. As the plants grow the straw will continue to break down and supply nutrients, but it’s a good idea to supplement with a liquid fertilizer every few weeks.</p>
<p>Visit <a href="http://strawbalegardens.com/" target="_blank">StrawBaleGardens.com</a> for some great information.</p>
<p>Download <a href="http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublications/FS109E/FS109E.pdf" target="_blank">this great guide from Washington State University</a> on how to start a straw bale  garden.</p>
<p>(<a href="http://extension.unh.edu/articles/Why-would-I-want-straw-bale-garden" target="_blank">Source</a>)</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://www.growrealfood.com/gardening-with-straw-bales/">Gardening with Straw Bales</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.growrealfood.com">Grow Real Food — Organic Gardening, Homesteading &amp; Real Food Recipes</a>.</p>
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		<title>Grow Your Best Fall Garden Vegetables: What, When and How</title>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Grow REAL Food]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 28 Jul 2013 20:02:01 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fall]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[garden]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[planting]]></category>
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					<description><![CDATA[<p>&#160; For gardeners wanting to get the most from the time they have, here’s expert advice on planting and growing fall garden vegetables. Right now, before you forget, put a rubber band around your wrist to remind you of one gardening task that cannot be postponed: Planting seeds for fall garden vegetables. As summer draws to a close, gardens everywhere can morph into a tapestry of delicious greens, from tender lettuce to frost-proof spinach, with a sprinkling of red mustard [&#8230;]</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://www.growrealfood.com/grow-your-best-fall-garden-vegetables-what-when-and-how/">Grow Your Best Fall Garden Vegetables: What, When and How</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.growrealfood.com">Grow Real Food — Organic Gardening, Homesteading &amp; Real Food Recipes</a>.</p>
]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://seedsnow.refersion.com/c/9d8" target="_blank"><img decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-309 aligncenter" alt="order-seeds-banner" src="http://www.growrealfood.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/order-seeds-banner.png" width="599" height="109" srcset="https://www.growrealfood.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/order-seeds-banner.png 599w, https://www.growrealfood.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/order-seeds-banner-300x54.png 300w" sizes="(max-width: 599px) 100vw, 599px" /></a></p>
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<p><em><img decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-314 alignleft" alt="Fall-Garden-Basket-294x300" src="http://www.growrealfood.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Fall-Garden-Basket-294x300.jpg" width="294" height="300" />For gardeners wanting to get the most from the time they have, here’s expert advice on planting and growing fall garden vegetables.</em></p>
<p>Right now, before you forget, put a rubber band around your wrist to remind you of one gardening task that cannot be postponed: Planting seeds for fall garden vegetables. As summer draws to a close, gardens everywhere can morph into a tapestry of delicious greens, from tender lettuce to frost-proof spinach, with a sprinkling of red mustard added for spice. In North America’s southern half, as long as seeds germinate in late July or early August, fall gardens can grow the best cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower you’ve ever tasted. In colder climates it’s prime time to sow carrots, rutabagas, and turnips to harvest in the fall. Filling space vacated by spring crops with summer-sown vegetables will keep your garden productive well into fall, and even winter.</p>
<p>Granted, the height of summer is not the best time to start tender seedlings of anything. Hot days, sparse rain, and heavy pest pressure must be factored into a sound planting plan, and then there’s the challenge of keeping fall plantings on schedule. But you can meet all of the basic requirements for a successful, surprisingly low-maintenance fall garden by following the steps outlined below. The time you invest now will pay off big time as you continue to harvest fresh veggies from your garden long after frost has killed your tomatoes and blackened your beans.</p>
<h2><strong>1. Starting Seeds </strong></h2>
<p>Count back 12 to 14 weeks from your average first fall frost date to plan your first task: starting seeds of broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, and kale indoors, where germination conditions are better than they are in the garden. Some garden centers carry a few cabbage family seedlings for fall planting, but don’t expect a good selection. The only sure way to have vigorous young seedlings is to grow your own, using the same procedures you would use in spring. As soon as the seedlings are three weeks old, be ready to set them out during a period of cloudy weather.</p>
<p>If you’re already running late, you can try direct-seeding fast-growing varieties of broccoli, kale or kohlrabi. Sow the seeds in shallow furrows covered with half an inch of potting soil. Keep the soil moist until the seedlings germinate, then thin them. The important thing is to get the plants up and growing in time to catch the last waves of summer heat.</p>
<p>When is too late? The end of July marks the close of planting season for cabbage family crops in northern areas (USDA Zones 6 and lower); August is perfect in warmer climates. Be forewarned: If cabbage family crops are set out after temperatures have cooled, they grow so slowly that they may not make a crop. Fortunately, leafy greens (keep reading) do not have this problem.</p>
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<h2><strong>2. Think Soil First</strong></h2>
<p>In addition to putting plenty of supernutritious food on your table, your fall garden provides an opportunity to manage soil fertility, and even control weeds. Rustic greens including arugula, mustard, and turnips make great triple-use fall garden crops. They taste great, their broad leaves shade out weeds, and nutrients they take up in fall are cycled back into the soil as the winter-killed residue rots. If you have time, enrich the soil with compost or aged manure to replenish micronutrients and give the plants a strong start.</p>
<p>You can also use vigorous leafy greens to “mop up” excess nitrogen left behind by spring crops (the organic matter in soil can hold quite a bit of nitrogen, but some leaches away during winter). Space that has recently been vacated by snap beans or garden peas is often a great place to grow heavy feeders such as spinach and cabbage family crops. When sown into corn stubble, comparatively easy-to-please leafy greens such as lettuce and mustard are great at finding hidden caches of nitrogen.</p>
<h2><strong>3. Try New Crops</strong></h2>
<p>Several of the best crops for your fall garden may not only be new to your garden, but new to your kitchen, too. Set aside small spaces to experiment with nutty arugula, crunchy Chinese cabbage, and super-cold-hardy mâche (corn salad). Definitely put rutabaga on your “gotta try it” list: Dense and nutty “Swede turnips” are really good (and easy!) when grown in the fall. Many Asian greens have been specially selected for growing in fall, too. Examples include ‘Vitamin Green’ spinach-mustard, supervigorous mizuna and glossy green tatsoi (also spelled tah tsai), which is beautiful enough to use as flower bed edging.</p>
<p>As you consider the possibilities, veer toward open-pollinated varieties for leafy greens, which are usually as good as — or better than — hybrids when grown in home gardens. The unopened flower buds of collards and kale pass for the gourmet vegetable called broccolini, and the young green seed pods of immature turnips and all types of mustard are great in stir-fries and salads. Allow your strongest plants to produce mature seeds. Collect some of the seeds for replanting, and scatter others where you want future greens to grow. In my garden, arugula, mizuna and turnips naturalize themselves with very little help from me, as long as I leave a few plants to flower and set seed each year.</p>
<p>With broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, and their close cousins, hybrid varieties generally excel in terms of fast, uniform growth, so this is one veggie group for which the hybrid edge is a huge asset. Breeding work is underway to develop better open-pollinated varieties for organic growers, but for now, trusted hybrids such as ‘Belstar’ broccoli, ‘Gonzales’ cabbage or ‘Snow Crown’ cauliflower are usually the best choices.</p>
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<div id="ArticleContent3">
<p>Finally, be sure to leave ample space for garlic, which is planted later on, when you can smell winter in the air. Shallots, multiplying onions, and perennial “nest” onions are also best planted in mid-fall, after the soil has cooled. In short-season areas these alliums are planted in September; elsewhere they are planted in October.</p>
<h2><strong>4. Watering Fall Garden Plants: Keep ’Em Soaked</strong></h2>
<p>Even short periods of drought stress can put a nasty kink in the growth curve of most fall crops. Dry soil can be murder on slow-growing beets and carrots, and any type of setback can devastate temperamental cauliflower. Your best defense is to install a soaker hose before you set out plants or sow seeds. Try laying out the hose in various patterns and turning it on to get a good look at its coverage first. If the hose won’t stay where you put it, use short stakes or wire staples to hold it in place.</p>
<p>Keeping newly planted beds moist long enough for seeds to germinate is easy with leafy greens such as arugula, Chinese cabbage, collards, mizuna or turnips, because the seeds naturally germinate quickly, in five days or less. But beets, carrots, lettuce and spinach are often slower to appear, which means you must keep the seeded bed moist longer. Simple shade covers made from boards held above the bed by bricks do a great job of shielding the germination zone from drying sunshine, or you can shade seeded soil with cloth held aloft with stakes or hoops. You may still need to water by hand to make sure conditions stay moist, but shade covers can make the difference between watering once a day or four times as often.</p>
<h2><strong>5. Go Mad for Mulch</strong></h2>
<p>Whether you use fresh green grass clippings, last year’s almost-rotted leaves, spoiled hay, or another great mulch you have on hand, place it over sheets of newspaper between plants. The newspaper will block light, which will prevent weed growth, help keep the soil cool and moist, and attract night crawlers and other earthworms. To get the best coverage, lay down the double-mulch and wet it thoroughly before you plant your seedlings. Cover the soaker hose with mulch, too.</p>
<p>Mulching can have one drawback in that organic mulches are ideal nighttime hide-outs for slugs and snails, which come out at night and chew holes in the leaves of dozens of plants, and may ruin mature green tomatoes, too. Watch for mollusk outbreaks, and use iron phosphate baits or beer-baited traps, if needed, to bring problem populations under control.</p>
<h2><strong>6. Deploy Your Defenses Against Garden Pests</strong></h2>
<p>Luscious little seedlings attract a long list of aggressive pests, including cabbageworms, army worms, and ever-voracious grasshoppers. Damage from all of these pests (and more) can be prevented by covering seedlings with row covers the day they go into the garden. Use a “summer-weight” insect barrier row cover that retains little heat, or make your own by sewing or pinning two pieces of wedding net (tulle) into a long, wide shroud. Hold the row cover above the plants with stakes or hoops, and be prepared to raise its height as the plants grow.</p>
<div id="ArticleContent4">
<p>Summer sun can be your seedlings’ best friend or worst enemy. Always allow at least a week of adjustment time for seedlings started indoors, gradually exposing them to more direct sunlight. Even transplants that are given a week to get used to strong sun appreciate a few days of shade after they are set out, which can be easily provided by placing an old sheet over the row cover. Or, you can simply pop flower pots over the seedlings for a couple of days after transplanting. In most areas, insect pressures ease as nights become chilly in mid-fall, but you might want to keep your row covers on a little longer if your garden is visited by deer, which tend to become more troublesome as summer turns to fall.</p>
<hr />
<h2>Fall Garden Planting Schedule</h2>
<p><a class="theme-generated-button button fancy2-button" href="http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/" target="_blank"><em>Find your USDA Hardiness Zone</em></a></p>
<p>There is no time to waste getting your fall garden crops into the ground, but exactly when should you plant them? Exact dates vary with location, and we have two online tools to help you find the best planting times for your garden. For fall gardens, we suggest using the date given for a 50 percent chance of having a 28-degree night — what gardeners call a killing frost. (Keep in mind that cold temperatures may come and go for several weeks in late fall. In most areas, you can easily stretch your fall season by covering plants with old blankets on subfreezing nights.)</p>
<p><strong>12 to 14 weeks before your first killing frost</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Direct-sow last plantings of fast-maturing, warm-season vegetables such as snap beans, cucumbers, and summer squash. Also sow parsnips and rutabagas, and begin planting cilantro, lettuce, and radishes.</li>
<li>Start cabbage family seedlings indoors, and set out the seedlings as promptly as possible.</li>
<li>In climates with long autumns, plant celery, bulb fennel, and parsley in the fall.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>10 to 12 weeks before your first killing frost</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Set out broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, kohlrabi, and cauliflower seedlings, along with celery, bulb fennel and parsley.</li>
<li>Direct-sow beets, carrots, collards, leeks and scallions, along with more lettuce and radishes. In some areas, even fast-maturing peas and potatoes will do well in the fall garden.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>8 to 10 weeks before your first killing frost</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Direct-sow arugula, Chinese cabbage, lettuce, turnips, spinach, mustard, pac choi, tatsoi, and other Asian greens.</li>
<li>Sow more lettuce and radishes, including daikons.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>6 to 8 weeks before first killing frost</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Make a final sowing of spinach along with mâche, which matches spinach for super winter-hardiness. (In most regions, you can expect to enjoy these crops in your Christmas salads!)</li>
<li>Make a final sowing of lettuce beneath a protective tunnel or frame.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>On or around your first killing frost date</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Every fall garden should include garlic and shallots. If you love onions, be sure to try multiplying onions and perennial “nest” onions.</li>
</ul>
<hr />
<h2>Getting the Most from Your Fall Garden</h2>
<p>High-density planting in double or triple rows can increase your per-square-foot return by 40 percent with broccoli, or up to 70 percent with cabbage. Use a zigzag planting pattern to fit more plants into less space while allowing 18 inches between plants. Use dwarf varieties when spacing plants closer together, because too much crowding can lead to delayed maturation and low yields.</p>
<p>Cut-and-come-again harvesting can prolong the productive lives of heading crops such as spring-planted cabbage and Chinese cabbage. As long as the primary head is cut high, leaving a stout stub behind, small secondary heads often will develop within a few weeks. Many varieties of broccoli are enthusiastic cut-and-come-again vegetables, too. After the main head has been harvested (taking only 3 inches or so of stem), varieties such as ‘Belstar,’ ‘Green Goliath’ and many others produce numerous tender side shoots. The harvest will continue until temperatures drop into the teens, which seriously damages broccoli plants. In much of Zone 7 and 8, healthy broccoli plants will keep spewing out shoots for months, and sometimes all winter.</p>
<p>Transplant the untransplantable if that’s what it takes to get a good stand. For example, most gardeners have read that beets, carrots, and rutabagas should be sown directly in the garden, but I often get better filled, more uniform rows in late summer by starting seeds indoors and setting out seedlings when they show their first true leaf. If the seedlings are kept moist and shaded for a few days after transplanting, about 75 percent of them survive.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://seedsnow.refersion.com/c/9d8" target="_blank"><img decoding="async" class="size-full wp-image-309 aligncenter" alt="order-seeds-banner" src="http://www.growrealfood.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/order-seeds-banner.png" width="599" height="109" srcset="https://www.growrealfood.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/order-seeds-banner.png 599w, https://www.growrealfood.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/order-seeds-banner-300x54.png 300w" sizes="(max-width: 599px) 100vw, 599px" /></a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>(From <a href="http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/fall-garden-vegetables-zmaz09aszraw.aspx" target="_blank">Mother Earth News</a>)</p>
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<p>The post <a href="https://www.growrealfood.com/grow-your-best-fall-garden-vegetables-what-when-and-how/">Grow Your Best Fall Garden Vegetables: What, When and How</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.growrealfood.com">Grow Real Food — Organic Gardening, Homesteading &amp; Real Food Recipes</a>.</p>
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		<title>Identifying Plant Nutrient Deficiencies</title>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Grow REAL Food]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 20 Jul 2013 13:52:33 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[calcium]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[deficiency]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[iron]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[macronutrients]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[magnesium]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[manganese]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[micronutrients]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[nitrogen]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[nutrient deficiencies]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[plant health]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[potassium]]></category>
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					<description><![CDATA[<p>Not all plant problems are caused by insects or diseases. Sometimes an unhealthy plant is suffering from a nutrient deficiency or even too much of any one nutrient. Plant nutrient deficiencies often manifest as foliage discoloration or distortion. The following chart outlines some possible problems. Unfortunately many problems have similar symptoms and sometimes it is a combination of problems. Be sure you eliminate the obvious before you kill your plants with kindness. Check first for signs of insects or disease.&#160; [&#8230;]</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://www.growrealfood.com/identifying-plant-nutrient-deficiencies/">Identifying Plant Nutrient Deficiencies</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.growrealfood.com">Grow Real Food — Organic Gardening, Homesteading &amp; Real Food Recipes</a>.</p>
]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.growrealfood.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/simple-plant-deficiency-guide.png"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-261" alt="simple-plant-deficiency-guide" src="http://www.growrealfood.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/simple-plant-deficiency-guide.png" width="893" height="893" srcset="https://www.growrealfood.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/simple-plant-deficiency-guide.png 893w, https://www.growrealfood.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/simple-plant-deficiency-guide-300x300.png 300w, https://www.growrealfood.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/simple-plant-deficiency-guide-100x100.png 100w, https://www.growrealfood.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/simple-plant-deficiency-guide-600x600.png 600w, https://www.growrealfood.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/simple-plant-deficiency-guide-150x150.png 150w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 893px) 100vw, 893px" /></a></p>
<p>Not all plant problems are caused by insects or diseases. Sometimes an unhealthy plant is suffering from a nutrient deficiency or even too much of any one nutrient. Plant nutrient deficiencies often manifest as foliage discoloration or distortion. The following chart outlines some possible problems. Unfortunately many problems have similar symptoms and sometimes it is a combination of problems.</p>
<p>Be sure you eliminate the obvious before you kill your plants with kindness.</p>
<ul>
<li>Check first for signs of insects or disease.&nbsp;</li>
<li>Foliage discoloration and stunted plants can easily be caused by soil that is too wet and drains poorly or soil that is too compacted for good root growth.&nbsp;</li>
<li>Extreme cold or heat will slow plant growth and effect flowering and fruit set.&nbsp;</li>
<li>Too much fertilizer can result in salt injury. Your plants may look scorched or they may wilt, even when the soil is wet.</li>
</ul>
<p>For a definitive diagnoses, contact your local cooperative extension service.</p>
<p>Plants require a mix of nutrients to remain healthy. Nutrients that are needed in relatively large amounts are called the macronutrients. Plant macronutrients include: nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus, calcium, sulfur and magnesium.</p>
<p>There are a handful of additional nutrients that are required for plant growth, but in much smaller quantities. These micronutrients include: boron, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum and zinc.</p>
<p>All of these nutrients are taken in through the roots. Water transfers the nutrients from the soil to the plant roots. So one requirement of sufficient plant nutrition is water. A second requirement is the appropriate soil pH for the plant being grown. Each plant prefers a specific pH range to be able to access the nutrients in the soil. Some plants are fussier than others, but if the soil pH is too acidic or alkaline, the plant will not be able to take in nutrients no matter how rich your soil may be.</p>
<h3>
Plant Nutrient Deficiency Symptoms</h3>
<h3>Macronutrients</h3>
<p><b>Calcium (Ca)</b></p>
<ul>
<li><b>Symptoms:</b> New leaves are distorted or hook shaped. The growing tip may die. Contributes to blossom end rot in tomatoes, tip burn of cabbage and brown/black heart of escarole &amp; celery.</li>
<li><b>Sources:</b> Any compound containing the word &#8216;calcium&#8217;. Also gypsum.</li>
<li><b>Notes:</b> Not often a deficiency problem and too much will inhibit other nutrients.</li>
</ul>
<p><b>Nitrogen (N)</b></p>
<ul>
<li><b>Symptoms:</b> Older leaves, generally at the bottom of the plant, will yellow. Remaining foliage is often light green. Stems may also yellow and may become spindly. Growth slows.</li>
<li><b>Sources:</b> Any compound containing the words: &#8216;nitrate&#8217;, &#8216;ammonium&#8217; or &#8216;urea&#8217;. Also manure.</li>
<li><b>Notes:</b> Many forms of nitrogen are water soluble and wash away.</li>
</ul>
<p><b>Magnesium (Mg)</b></p>
<ul>
<li><b>Symptoms:</b> Slow growth and leaves turn pale yellow, sometimes just on the outer edges. New growth may be yellow with dark spots.</li>
<li><b>Sources:</b> Compounds containing the word &#8216;magnesium&#8217;, such as Epson Salts.</li>
</ul>
<p><b>Phosphorus (P)</b></p>
<ul>
<li><b>Symptoms:</b> Small leaves that may take on a reddish-purple tint. Leaf tips can look burnt and older leaves become almost black. Reduced fruit or seed production.</li>
<li><b>Sources:</b> Compounds containing the words &#8216;phosphate&#8217; or &#8216;bone&#8217;. Also greensand.</li>
<li><b>Notes:</b> Very dependent on pH range.</li>
</ul>
<p><b>Potassium (K)</b></p>
<ul>
<li><b>Symptoms:</b> Older leaves may look scorched around the edges and/or wilted. Interveinal chlorosis (yellowing between the leaf veins) develops.</li>
<li><b>Sources:</b> Compounds containing the words &#8216;potassium&#8217; or &#8216;potash&#8217;.</li>
</ul>
<p><b>Sulfur (S)</b></p>
<ul>
<li><b>Symptoms:</b> New growth turns pale yellow, older growth stays green. Stunts growth.</li>
<li><b>Sources:</b> Compounds containing the word &#8216;sulfate&#8217;.</li>
<li><b>Notes:</b> More prevalent in dry weather.</li>
</ul>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<h3>
Micronutrients</h3>
<p><b>Boron (B)</b></p>
<ul>
<li><b>Symptoms:</b> Poor stem and root growth. Terminal (end) buds may die. Witches brooms sometimes form.</li>
<li><b>Sources:</b> Compounds containing the words &#8216;borax&#8217; or &#8216;borate&#8217;.</li>
</ul>
<p><b>Copper (Cu)</b></p>
<ul>
<li><b>Symptoms:</b> Stunted growth. Leaves can become limp, curl, or drop. Seed stalks also become limp and bend over.</li>
<li><b>Sources:</b> Compounds containing the words &#8216;copper&#8217;, &#8216;cupric&#8217; or &#8216;cuprous&#8217;.</li>
</ul>
<p><b>Manganese (Mn)</b></p>
<ul>
<li><b>Symptoms:</b> Growth slows. Younger leaves turn pale yellow, often starting between veins. May develop dark or dead spots. Leaves, shoots and fruit diminished in size. Failure to bloom.</li>
<li><b>Sources:</b> Compounds containing the words &#8216;manganese&#8217; or &#8216;manganous&#8217;</li>
</ul>
<p><b>Molybdenum (Mo)</b></p>
<ul>
<li><b>Symptoms:</b> Older leaves yellow, remaining foliage turns light green. Leaves can become narrow and distorted.</li>
<li><b>Sources:</b> Compounds containing the words &#8216;molybdate&#8217; or &#8216;molybdic&#8217;.</li>
<li><b>Notes:</b> Sometimes confused with nitrogen deficiency.</li>
</ul>
<p><b>Zinc (Zn)</b></p>
<ul>
<li><b>Symptoms:</b> Yellowing between veins of new growth. Terminal (end) leaves may form a rosette.</li>
<li><b>Sources:</b> Compounds containing the word &#8216;zinc&#8217;.</li>
<li><b>Notes:</b> Can become limited in higher pH.</li>
</ul>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<address>Written by <em>Marie Iannotti</em></address>
<p>The post <a href="https://www.growrealfood.com/identifying-plant-nutrient-deficiencies/">Identifying Plant Nutrient Deficiencies</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.growrealfood.com">Grow Real Food — Organic Gardening, Homesteading &amp; Real Food Recipes</a>.</p>
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		<title>Cauliflower Prevent Various Cancers: Thanks to Sulforaphane Compounds</title>
		<link>https://www.growrealfood.com/cauliflower-prevent-various-cancers-thanks-to-sulforaphane-compounds/</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Grow REAL Food]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 16 Jul 2013 12:04:02 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Health]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cancer]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cancer prevention]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cauliflower]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[health]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[vegetables]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.growrealfood.com/?p=226</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[<p>Cauliflower is just one of the many cruciferous vegetables that may be able to treat cancer, according to a study coming from Rutgers University. Cauliflower contains glucosinolates and thiocyanates — both sulfur-containing phytonutrients that cleanse the body of damaging free radicals. It also contains a substance called sulforaphane (SFN), a compound known to inhibit the occurrence of some cancers in rats caused by carcinogens, primarily colon cancer. In the Rutger’s research, it was found once again that diet does matter in cancer [&#8230;]</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://www.growrealfood.com/cauliflower-prevent-various-cancers-thanks-to-sulforaphane-compounds/">Cauliflower Prevent Various Cancers: Thanks to Sulforaphane Compounds</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.growrealfood.com">Grow Real Food — Organic Gardening, Homesteading &amp; Real Food Recipes</a>.</p>
]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-227" alt="cauliflower-4095119171_e7a223a92d-nick-salmarsh" src="http://www.growrealfood.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/cauliflower-4095119171_e7a223a92d-nick-salmarsh-300x225.jpg" width="300" height="225" srcset="https://www.growrealfood.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/cauliflower-4095119171_e7a223a92d-nick-salmarsh-300x225.jpg 300w, https://www.growrealfood.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/cauliflower-4095119171_e7a223a92d-nick-salmarsh.jpg 500w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" />Cauliflower is just one of the many cruciferous vegetables that may be able to treat cancer, according to <a href="http://urwebsrv.rutgers.edu/medrel/viewArticle.html">a study</a> coming from Rutgers University.</strong></p>
<p>Cauliflower contains glucosinolates and thiocyanates — both sulfur-containing phytonutrients that cleanse the body of damaging free radicals. It also contains a substance called <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sulforaphane" target="_blank">sulforaphane</a> (SFN), a compound known to inhibit the occurrence of some cancers in rats caused by carcinogens, primarily colon cancer.</p>
<p>In the Rutger’s research, it was found once again that diet does matter in cancer prevention:</p>
<div></div>
<blockquote><p>“Our research has substantiated the connection between diet and cancer prevention, and it is now clear that the expression of cancer-related genes can be influenced by chemopreventive compounds in the things we eat,” said Kong, a professor of pharmaceutics in the Ernest Mario School of Pharmacy at Rutgers, The State University of New Jersey.</p></blockquote>
<p>Even the American Cancer Society admits that more than two thirds of cancers can be prevented with lifestyle modification, and this includes diet. In this particular study, mice fed a diet high in sulforaphane, the substance naturally occurring in cauliflower and broccoli, enjoyed fewer cancerous tumors, polyps, and smaller tumors in the their colons. After three weeks, the mice fed sulforaphane had a <strong>25% decline in tumors and those given double the dose had a 47% decrease in cancerous tumors.</strong></p>
<blockquote><p>The results are obvious, “Our results showed that SFN produced its cancer preventive effects in the mice by inducing apoptosis (programmed cell death) and inhibiting proliferation of the tumors; however, it was not clear what mechanism SFN employs to accomplish this,” Kong said.</p></blockquote>
<p>Just how vegetables like cauliflower (and other cruciferous vegetables) help to kill cancer cells is still unknown, but Kong’s team found that SFN suppressed certain enzymes or kinases that are highly expressed both in the mice and in patients with colon cancer. The researchers concluded that this enzymatic suppression activity is the likely basis for the chemopreventive effects of SFN.</p>
<p>Along with cauliflower’s high levels of SFN, it is also a powerful antioxidant with high levels of vitamin C and vitamin A, also known as cancer inhibitors. Researchers also believe that if you consume cauliflower and turmeric spice together, you can prevent or eradicate prostate cancer totally. The scientists, once again from Rutger’s, tested turmeric and it’s active compound known as <a href="http://www.news-medical.net/health/Curcumin-What-is-Curcumin.aspx" target="_blank">curcumin</a> along with phenethyl isothiocyanate (PEITC), a naturally occurring substance in certain vegetables such as watercress, cabbage, winter cress, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, kale, cauliflower, kohlrabi and turnips. They found cancer-preventative qualities in the duo.</p>
<p>There are many varieties of cauliflower that you can enjoy to help prevent colon and other cancers. You can find orange, green and purple varieties along with the more commonly known white. Cauliflower doesn’t need to be relegated to the vegetable tray at parties either, there are hundreds of delicious recipes <a href="http://www.foodnetwork.com/topics/cauliflower/index.html" target="_blank">here</a>.</p>
<div>
<p>Additional Sources: <a href="http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2006/05/060517185953.htm">ScienceDaily</a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Written By<em> Christina Sarich</em> (NaturalSociety.com) | Photo By <em>Nick Saltmarsh</em> (Flickr)</div>
<p>The post <a href="https://www.growrealfood.com/cauliflower-prevent-various-cancers-thanks-to-sulforaphane-compounds/">Cauliflower Prevent Various Cancers: Thanks to Sulforaphane Compounds</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.growrealfood.com">Grow Real Food — Organic Gardening, Homesteading &amp; Real Food Recipes</a>.</p>
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		<title>Organic Tomatoes, While Smaller, are More Nutritious than Conventional Counterpart, Study Shows</title>
		<link>https://www.growrealfood.com/organic-tomatoes-more-nutritious-than-conventional-counterparts/</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Grow REAL Food]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 07 Jun 2013 14:16:38 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Health]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fruits]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[health]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[lycopene]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[organic]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[study]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tomato]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tomatos]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[vegetables]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://growrealfood.com/?p=6</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[<p>Tomatoes, which are actually a fruit and not a vegetable, contain a number of valuable nutrients, and according to recent research, organically-grown tomatoes are even more nutritious than their conventionally-grown counterparts. One of the most well-known nutrients in tomatoes is lycopene — the compound that gives tomato its deep red color. Lycopene is a vital anti-oxidant that has been shown to have potent anti-cancerous activity. This compound is not naturally produced in your body, so it must be supplied via [&#8230;]</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://www.growrealfood.com/organic-tomatoes-more-nutritious-than-conventional-counterparts/">Organic Tomatoes, While Smaller, are More Nutritious than Conventional Counterpart, Study Shows</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.growrealfood.com">Grow Real Food — Organic Gardening, Homesteading &amp; Real Food Recipes</a>.</p>
]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<figure id="attachment_7" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-7" style="width: 300px" class="wp-caption alignleft"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-7 " alt=" Organic Tomatoes, While Smaller, are More Nutritious than Conventional Counterpart, Study Shows " src="http://growrealfood.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/tomato-300x225.jpg" width="300" height="225" srcset="https://www.growrealfood.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/tomato-300x225.jpg 300w, https://www.growrealfood.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/tomato.jpg 320w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-7" class="wp-caption-text">Flickr: epSos.de</figcaption></figure>
<p>Tomatoes, which are actually a fruit and not a vegetable, contain a number of valuable nutrients, and according to recent research, <em>organically-grown</em> tomatoes are even more nutritious than their conventionally-grown counterparts.</p>
<p>One of the most well-known nutrients in tomatoes is lycopene — the compound that gives tomato its deep red color.</p>
<p>Lycopene is a vital anti-oxidant that has been shown to have potent anti-cancerous activity. This compound is not naturally produced in your body, so it must be supplied via your diet.</p>
<p>Other fruits and vegetables also contain lycopene, but none has the high concentration of lycopene that the tomato boasts.</p>
<p>Interestingly, when cooked, the bioavailability of lycopene <em>increases</em> rather than decreases, as is the case with many other raw foods, as heat has a tendency to destroy valuable nutrients.</p>
<p>That said, you’re best off avoiding canned tomatoes and tomato sauces as can liners tend to contain potent estrogen mimics such as bisphenol A (BPA), which is also a toxic endocrine disrupting chemical. Your best bet is to make your own organic tomato sauce from scratch, or buy organic sauce sold in glass jars.</p>
<h2>Organic Tomatoes have 139 Percent Higher Phenolic Content, Study Shows</h2>
<p>It seems perfectly sensible that food grown in healthier soil with natural fertilizers and no synthetic agricultural chemicals would be more nutritious. This is common knowledge among farmers, yet this age-old, common sense wisdom is greatly suppressed in the United States in order to protect the large-scale industrial farming model.</p>
<p>According to a recent study published in the journal <em>PLOS One,</em> growing tomatoes according to organic standards results in dramatically elevated phenols content, compared to tomatoes grown conventionally, using agricultural chemicals.</p>
<p>The researchers compared total phenol content in organic and conventional tomatoes grown in nearby plots in Brazil. This allowed for a more accurate comparison of the tomatoes, as both varieties were grown in similar soil- and climate conditions that might otherwise affect nutrient content.</p>
<p>According to the authors:</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><em>“This study was conducted with the objective of testing the hypothesis that tomato fruits from organic farming accumulate more nutritional compounds, such as phenolics and vitamin C as a consequence of the stressing conditions associated with farming system.”</em></p>
<p>The organic tomatoes were found to contain 55 percent more vitamin C, and 139 percent more total phenolic content at the stage of commercial maturity, compared to the conventionally-grown tomatoes. According to the authors:</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><em>“[T]his seems consistent with the more than two times higher activity of phenylalanine ammonia lyase (PAL) we observed throughout fruit development in fruits from organic farming. </em></p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><em>Taken together, our observations suggest that tomato fruits from organic farming experienced stressing conditions that resulted in oxidative stress and the accumulation of higher concentrations of soluble solids as sugars and other compounds contributing to fruit nutritional quality such as vitamin C and phenolic compounds.”</em></p>
<h2>Today’s Vegetables Aren’t as Nutritious as They Used to Be&#8230;</h2>
<p>There was a trade-off, and that was <em>size</em>. The conventional tomatoes were significantly larger. However, while many unaware consumers equate size with quality, this simply isn’t the case. At least in the case of organic tomatoes, you get more even though it’s in a smaller “package.”</p>
<p>This does tend to hold true for other organic produce as well though. According to research published in 2009, American produce, while larger than ever before, contains fewer nutrients and tastes worse than it did in your grandparents&#8217; days.</p>
<p>In fact, the average vegetable found in today&#8217;s supermarket is anywhere from 5 percent to 40 percent lower in minerals such as magnesium, iron, calcium and zinc than those harvested just 50 years ago. As the featured study suggests, jumbo-sized produce contains more &#8220;dry matter&#8221; than anything else, which dilutes mineral concentrations.</p>
<h2>Other Studies Have Also Shown Organic Fruits and Veggies Are More Nutritious</h2>
<figure id="attachment_8" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-8" style="width: 300px" class="wp-caption alignright"><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="size-medium wp-image-8" alt="Fruits" src="http://growrealfood.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/fruits-300x225.jpg" width="300" height="225" srcset="https://www.growrealfood.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/fruits-300x225.jpg 300w, https://www.growrealfood.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/fruits.jpg 500w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" /><figcaption id="caption-attachment-8" class="wp-caption-text">Flickr: Udaios</figcaption></figure>
<p>Previous research has also shown there can be a nutritional difference between organic- and</p>
<p>conventionally-grown vegetables. For example, a 2003 study in the <em>Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry<sup><a href="http://articles.mercola.com/sites/articles/archive/2013/03/25/organic-tomatoes.aspx#_edn2" name="_ednref2"></a></sup></em> found that organic foods are better for fighting cancer. And in 2005, scientists found that, compared to rats that ate conventional diets, organically fed rats experienced various health benefits. Rats that ate organic or minimally fertilized diets had:</p>
<blockquote>
<ul>
<li>Improved immune system status</li>
<li>Better sleeping habits</li>
<li>Less weight and were slimmer than rats fed other diets</li>
<li>Higher vitamin E content in their blood (for organically fed rats)</li>
</ul>
</blockquote>
<p>Other studies assessing the nutritional composition and difference between organic and conventional produce include:</p>
<blockquote>
<ul>
<li>A 2010 study conducted by <em>PloS ONE</em> (partially funded by the USDA), which found organic strawberries to be more nutrient-rich than non-organic strawberries</li>
<li>In 2009, the American Association for the Advancement of Science featured a presentation on soil health and its impact on food quality.Conclusion: Healthy soil leads to higher levels of nutrients in crops</li>
<li>Even the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention conducted their own behavioral study that found higher risk of ADHD in children with higher levels of organophospates (pesticides)</li>
</ul>
</blockquote>
<p>But perhaps one of the best studies out there on the benefits of organic versus conventionally-grown foods is the 2007 Quality Low Input Food Project<sup><a href="http://articles.mercola.com/sites/articles/archive/2013/03/25/organic-tomatoes.aspx#_edn7" name="_ednref7"></a></sup><strong>&#8212; </strong>a $25-million study into organic food, and the largest of its kind. The researchers grew fruit and vegetables, and raised cattle, on adjacent organic and non-organic sites, and discovered that:</p>
<blockquote>
<ul>
<li>Organic fruit and vegetables contain up to 40 percent more antioxidants</li>
<li>Organic produce had higher levels of beneficial minerals like iron and zinc</li>
<li>Milk from organic herds contained up to 90 percent more antioxidants</li>
</ul>
</blockquote>
<p>The results were so impressive they stated that eating organic foods can even help to increase the nutrient intake of people who don’t eat the recommended five servings of fruits and vegetables a day. Besides the potential for improved nutrition, other reasons for choosing organic, and ideally locally-grown food include better food quality, better taste and, in the case of local food: increased freshness since the food has not traveled over thousands of miles.</p>
<h2>Another Important Boon of Organic = Reduced Toxic Load</h2>
<p>Many “health” experts insist there is little difference between organic and conventionally raised produce, but their arguments are flimsy at best. For example, a 2012 meta-analysis by Stanford University<sup><a href="http://articles.mercola.com/sites/articles/archive/2013/03/25/organic-tomatoes.aspx#_edn8" name="_ednref8"></a></sup> received widespread media coverage, and with few exceptions, conventional media outlets used it to cast doubt on the value of an organic diet. You had to be a reader of alternative media to get the <em>real </em>scoop on this study&#8230;</p>
<p>In a nutshell, the meta-analysis, which looked at 240 reports comparing organically and conventionally grown food (including 17 human studies), found that organic foods ARE safer, and probably healthier than conventional foods — <em>if you are of the conviction that ingesting fewer toxins is healthier and safer for you</em>. Interestingly, the Stanford study <em>also</em> found that organic foods tend to have higher levels of phenols, specifically.</p>
<p>While I believe organic foods grown in healthy soils can be more nutritious than their conventional counterparts grown in depleted soils with synthetic chemicals, a <em>major</em> benefit of organically grown foods really is the <em>reduction in your toxic load</em>. Agricultural chemicals, such as synthetic fertilizers, herbicides and pesticides, can cause a wide variety of health problems, including:</p>
<blockquote>
<ul>
<li>Neurotoxicity</li>
<li>Disruption of your endocrine system</li>
<li>Cancer</li>
<li>Immune system suppression</li>
<li>Male infertility and miscarriages in women</li>
</ul>
</blockquote>
<h2>The Health Benefits of Tomatoes</h2>
<p>Tomatoes are rich in flavonoids and other phytochemicals that have anticarcinogenic properties. They’re also an excellent source of lutein, zeaxanthin, vitamin C, which is most concentrated in the jelly-like substance that surrounds the seeds, as well as vitamins A, E and B-complex vitamins, potassium, manganese and phosphorus. Other lesser known phytonutrients found in tomatoes include:</p>
<blockquote>
<ul>
<li>Flavonols: rutin, kaempferol, quercetin</li>
<li>Flavonones: naringenin, chalconaringenin</li>
<li>Hydroxycinnamic acids: caffeic acid, ferulic acid, coumaric acid</li>
<li>Glycosides: esculeoside A</li>
<li>Fatty acid derivatives: 9-oxo-octadecadienoic acid</li>
</ul>
</blockquote>
<p>Getting back to lycopene — a carotenoid antioxidant that gives fruits and vegetables like tomatoes and watermelon a pink or red color — this is one nutrient you’ll want to be sure you&#8217;re getting enough of.</p>
<p>Lycopene&#8217;s antioxidant activity has long been suggested to be more powerful than other carotenoids such as beta-carotene, and recent research revealed it may significantly reduce your stroke risk (while other antioxidants did not). The 2012 analysis followed over 1,000 men in their mid-40s to mid-50s for more than 12 years.</p>
<p>After controlling for other stroke risk factors, such as older age and diabetes, they found that men with the highest blood levels of lycopene were 55 percent less likely to have a stroke than those with the lowest. Other antioxidants, including alpha carotene, beta-carotene, alpha tocopherol (vitamin E) and retinol (vitamin A), showed no such benefit.</p>
<p>The high blood levels of lycopene were said to be a marker for intake of tomatoes and tomato-based products, as these are a particularly concentrated source. It&#8217;s estimated that 85 percent of dietary lycopene in North Americans comes from tomato products such as tomato juice or tomato paste. In addition to lowering your risk of stroke, lycopene from tomatoes (including unsweetened organic tomato sauce) has also been shown to be helpful in treating prostate cancer.</p>
<h2>Tomatoes Must be Eaten with Fat for Proper Absorption, and Two Other Caveats</h2>
<p>Lycopene is a fat-soluble nutrient, which means eating it with some dietary fat is essential in order for it to be properly absorbed. So a slow-cooked tomato sauce that contains olive oil or another source of healthy fat, such as grass-fed beef, may be an ideal source.</p>
<p>One caveat: when making your tomato sauce, start out with fresh tomatoes, as canned tomatoes typically have a lining that contains bisphenol-A (BPA) which is a potent estrogen mimic that have been linked to a number of health problems, including diabetes, heart disease, heightened risk of breast and prostate cancers, neurological effects, reproductive problems and obesity.</p>
<p>The current US federal guidelines put the daily upper limit of “safe” exposure at 50 micrograms of BPA per kilogram of body weight. According to endocrinologist Dr. Fredrick vom Saal, a tin can contains around 50 mcg of Bisphenol A (BPA), and when the cans contain acidic food such as tomatoes, it will leach <em>more</em> BPA from the liner into the food. According to Consumer Reports’ testing, just a couple of servings of canned food can exceed the safety limits for daily BPA exposure for children.</p>
<p>So, ideally avoid canned foods entirely and stick to fresh fruits and vegetables, or switch over to brands that use glass containers instead. One other point: if you eat a lot of ketchup, you might want to consider choosing an organic version (as well as one that is unsweetened, as regular ketchup is a common source of sugar and high fructose corn syrup). Organic ketchup has been found to contain 57 percent more lycopene than conventional national brands.</p>
<h2>Cooked Tomatoes May be Better than Raw</h2>
<p>Tomatoes differ from many other raw foods in that <em>cooking</em> them may in fact be better than eating them raw. Research shows that cooked tomatoes (such as in tomato sauce or tomato paste) not only increases the lycopene content that can be absorbed by your body, but also increases the total antioxidant activity. In one study, when tomatoes were heated to just over 190 degrees F (88 degrees C) for two minutes, 15 minutes and 30 minutes:</p>
<blockquote>
<ul>
<li>Beneficial trans-lycopene content increased by 54 percent, 171 percent and 164 percent, respectively</li>
<li>Levels of cis -lycopene (which is a form easily absorbed by your body) rose by 6, 17 and 35 percent, respectively</li>
<li>Overall antioxidant levels increased by 28, 34 and 62 percent, respectively</li>
</ul>
</blockquote>
<h2>Return to &#8216;the Way Things Were&#8230;&#8217;</h2>
<p>The simplest way back toward health is to focus on whole, organic foods, grown or raised as nature intended. Meaning, it’s grown using sustainable farming practices, and without the use of chemical additives, pesticides and fertilizers. You can even grow your own. Picking the types of seeds can go a long way in helping your garden be plentiful and even determines how juicy or hardy your vegetables are. Heirloom seeds are seeds that have been carefully cultivated to produce the best plants possible; they&#8217;re hardy and bountiful. You can find packages containing 26 of the popular heirloom seeds in my Heirloom Variety Seed Collection, available in my online store.</p>
<p>As the featured study attests, fruits and vegetables grown according to organic standards are typically nutritionally superior, but even if they <em>weren’t</em>, organic produce will limit the amount of toxic residues you end up consuming, which is a major benefit in and of itself.</p>
<p>As for tomatoes, they’re one of the most potent sources of lycopene, shown to have anti-cancerous activity and the potential to reduce stroke risk. Just remember to consume your tomatoes, whether raw or cooked, with some type of fat, such as olive oil, since lycopene is a fat-soluble nutrient. Also remember to choose organic varieties, whether whole tomatoes or tomato paste, ketchup or sauce, and avoid anything that comes in a can, since the acidity of the tomatoes will increase toxic BPA release from the liner in the can.</p>
<address>By Dr. Mercola (Mercola.com)</address>
<h2></h2>
<p>The post <a href="https://www.growrealfood.com/organic-tomatoes-more-nutritious-than-conventional-counterparts/">Organic Tomatoes, While Smaller, are More Nutritious than Conventional Counterpart, Study Shows</a> appeared first on <a href="https://www.growrealfood.com">Grow Real Food — Organic Gardening, Homesteading &amp; Real Food Recipes</a>.</p>
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