Hugelkultur raised garden beds in a nutshell:

• grow a typical garden without irrigation or fertilization
• has been demonstrated to work in deserts as well as backyards
• use up rotting wood, twigs, branches and even whole trees that would otherwise go to the dump or be burned
• it is pretty much nothing more than buried wood
• can be flush with the ground, although raised garden beds are typically better
• can start small, and be added to later
• can always be small – although bigger is better
• You can save the world from global warming by doing carbon sequestration in your own back yard!
• perfect for places that have had trees blown over by storms
• can help end world hunger
• give a gift to your future self

The verbose details about hugelkultur raised garden beds

It’s a german word and some people can say it all german-ish. I’m an american doofus, so I say “hoogle culture”. I had to spend some time with google to find the right spelling. Hugal, hoogal, huegal, hugel …. And I really like saying it out loud: “hugelkultur, hoogle culture, hoogal kulture ….” – it could be a chant or something.

I learned this high-falootin word at my permaculture training. I also saw it demonstrated on the Sepp Holzer terraces and raised beds video – he didn’t call it hugelkultur, but he was doing it.

Hugelkultur is nothing more than making raised garden beds filled with rotten wood. This makes for raised garden beds loaded with organic material, nutrients, air pockets for the roots of what you plant, etc. As the years pass, the deep soil of your raised garden bed becomes incredibly rich and loaded with soil life. As the wood shrinks, it makes more tiny air pockets – so your hugelkultur becomes sort of self tilling. The first few years, the composting process will slightly warm your soil giving you a slightly longer growing season. The woody matter helps to keep nutrient excess from passing into the ground water – and then refeeding that to your garden plants later. Plus, by holding SO much water, hugelkultur could be part of a system for growing garden crops in the desert with no irrigation.

I do think there are some considerations to keep in mind. For example, I don’t think I would use cedar. Cedar lasts so long because it is loaded with natural pesticides/herbicides/anti-fungal/anti-microbial (remember, good soil has lots of fungal and microbial stuff). Not a good mix for tomatoes or melons, eh? Black locust, black cherry, black walnut? These woods have issues. Black locust won’t rot – I think because it is so dense. Black walnut is very toxic to most plants, and cherry is toxic to animals, but it might be okay when it rots – but I wouldn’t use it until I had done the research. Known excellent woods are: alders, apple, cottonwood, poplar, willow (dry) and birch. I suspect maples would be really good too, but am not certain. Super rotten wood is better than slightly aged wood. The best woods are even better when they have been cut the same day (this allows you to “seed” the wood with your choice of fungus – shitake mushrooms perhaps?).

Another thing to keep in mind is that wood is high in carbon and will consume nitrogen to do the compost thing. This could lock up the nitrogen and take it away from your growies. But well rotted wood doesn’t do this so much. If the wood is far enough along, it may have already taken in sooooo much nitrogen, that it is now putting it out!

Pine and fir will have some levels of tanins in them, but I’m guessing that most of that will be gone when the wood has been dead for a few years.

……..Read the rest of the article from the source

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A Worm Tower is basically a length of pipe buried halfway in the ground with holes drilled in the buried part for worms to get in and out. Food scraps are added directly to the tower instead of into your composting bin, and are eaten by worms already living in the target part of your yard. You can add Worm Towers to your full blown vermiculture / vermicomposting regime or just use them by themselves, particularly in raised beds. Several steps and lots of time can be eliminated for some of your composting by simply delivering food waste directly to the worms, directly on to the garden.

Build Your Own Worm Tower in Just 3 Simple Steps

STEP 1
Drill ¼+ inch holes into a PVC or plastic tube so that the worms can move freely in and out. The tube should be anywhere between 2 and 2 ½ feet long, 4 to 8 inches in diameter. Drill on tarp or bed sheet to catch the bits of plastic.

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One of the best ways to enjoy the nutrition of a sunflower is by eating its sprouts. Sunflower sprouts boast a surprising 25 percent protein. They are also rich in stress-busting vitamin B and hormone-balancing zinc. Their sweet taste and hearty texture make a great addition to any salad.

Five healthy reasons to eat sunflower sprouts

1. Boost your fertility with sunflower seeds and sprouts: Both sunflower seeds and their sprouts contain high amounts of zinc. Zinc is a well-researched mineral that is essential for the development of sperm, which is why it is especially important for men.

2. Sunflower sprouts are high in B vitamins, especially folate: Folate (or folic acid) is a necessary B vitamin for pregnant women, needed to ensure proper development of the baby’s nervous system. The combination of B vitamins also assists in the mother’s circulation as well as aids in stress relief.

3. Boost your antioxidant capacity with sunflower sprouts: Both sunflower seeds and their sprouts contain high amounts of vitamin E. Vitamin E works synergistically with vitamin C and selenium to reduce blood pressure, increase the elasticity of arteries and prevent heart disease.

4. The sunflower sprout is a natural expectorant for chest congestion: In Ayurvedic medicine, these sprouts are thought to have the ability to encourage clearance of the lungs. Natural expectorants may also be used as a preventative measure against lower respiratory infections to deter the invasion of pathogens.

5. Sunflower seed sprouts are a great vegetarian source of protein: Protein is well known for its ability to repair muscle tissue and aid in enzymatic functions in the body. But protein is also important in bone development and the prevention of osteoporosis, as it acts as the fundamental framework for the development of the bone matrix and continues to support bone strength throughout life.

Sprout to life shake
Sprouts are a live food, which makes many nutrients more available for digestion and assimilation. Sunflower seed sprouts are rich in B vitamins and essential amino acids — precisely the nutrients your adrenal glands need to work at their optimum. Cleansing your tissues is more important for stress reduction than many people realize. If your cells are struggling to function because they are full of toxins, then you will be less resilient to stress, be it psychological, physical, or environmental.

Ingredients:
2 cups (500 mL) filtered water
1 cup (250 mL) apple cider or juice
1 cup (250 mL) fresh pineapple, sliced
1 cup (125 mL) sunflower seed sprouts
2 tbsp (30 g) hemp or sunflower seeds
1 tbsp (15 ml) lemon juice

Directions:
Add all ingredients to a blender, and mix until desired consistency is reached.
Makes 4 cups

Sunflower sprouts are also easy to grow indoors. Soak one cup of unhulled, natural and unroasted sunflower seeds overnight in a mason jar. Place a planting tray with holes onto a solid tray to ensure good drainage. Fill the planting tray with an inch of dirt, watering it well. Drain your soaked sunflower seeds, and spread them over the dirt in an even layer. Cover the seeds with an unbleached wet paper towel — this keeps the seeds moist and in the dark while they sprout. When the sprouts reach an inch tall (about two days), you can take off the cover and put them next to a sunny window. The sunlight will help create the bright green chlorophyll.

Be careful to keep them moist, but don’t over water them or you may encourage mold to grow. In one week your sunflower sprouts will be ready to harvest! If your house is cold, it may take an extra day for the sprouts to reach maturity.

(Source)

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Not all plant problems are caused by insects or diseases. Sometimes an unhealthy plant is suffering from a nutrient deficiency or even too much of any one nutrient. Plant nutrient deficiencies often manifest as foliage discoloration or distortion. The following chart outlines some possible problems. Unfortunately many problems have similar symptoms and sometimes it is a combination of problems.

Be sure you eliminate the obvious before you kill your plants with kindness.

• Check first for signs of insects or disease. 
• Foliage discoloration and stunted plants can easily be caused by soil that is too wet and drains poorly or soil that is too compacted for good root growth. 
• Extreme cold or heat will slow plant growth and effect flowering and fruit set. 
• Too much fertilizer can result in salt injury. Your plants may look scorched or they may wilt, even when the soil is wet.

For a definitive diagnoses, contact your local cooperative extension service.

Plants require a mix of nutrients to remain healthy. Nutrients that are needed in relatively large amounts are called the macronutrients. Plant macronutrients include: nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus, calcium, sulfur and magnesium.

There are a handful of additional nutrients that are required for plant growth, but in much smaller quantities. These micronutrients include: boron, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum and zinc.

All of these nutrients are taken in through the roots. Water transfers the nutrients from the soil to the plant roots. So one requirement of sufficient plant nutrition is water. A second requirement is the appropriate soil pH for the plant being grown. Each plant prefers a specific pH range to be able to access the nutrients in the soil. Some plants are fussier than others, but if the soil pH is too acidic or alkaline, the plant will not be able to take in nutrients no matter how rich your soil may be.

Plant Nutrient Deficiency Symptoms

Macronutrients

Calcium (Ca)

• Symptoms: New leaves are distorted or hook shaped. The growing tip may die. Contributes to blossom end rot in tomatoes, tip burn of cabbage and brown/black heart of escarole & celery.
• Sources: Any compound containing the word ‘calcium’. Also gypsum.
• Notes: Not often a deficiency problem and too much will inhibit other nutrients.

Nitrogen (N)

• Symptoms: Older leaves, generally at the bottom of the plant, will yellow. Remaining foliage is often light green. Stems may also yellow and may become spindly. Growth slows.
• Sources: Any compound containing the words: ‘nitrate’, ‘ammonium’ or ‘urea’. Also manure.
• Notes: Many forms of nitrogen are water soluble and wash away.

Magnesium (Mg)

• Symptoms: Slow growth and leaves turn pale yellow, sometimes just on the outer edges. New growth may be yellow with dark spots.
• Sources: Compounds containing the word ‘magnesium’, such as Epson Salts.

Phosphorus (P)

• Symptoms: Small leaves that may take on a reddish-purple tint. Leaf tips can look burnt and older leaves become almost black. Reduced fruit or seed production.
• Sources: Compounds containing the words ‘phosphate’ or ‘bone’. Also greensand.
• Notes: Very dependent on pH range.

Potassium (K)

• Symptoms: Older leaves may look scorched around the edges and/or wilted. Interveinal chlorosis (yellowing between the leaf veins) develops.
• Sources: Compounds containing the words ‘potassium’ or ‘potash’.

Sulfur (S)

• Symptoms: New growth turns pale yellow, older growth stays green. Stunts growth.
• Sources: Compounds containing the word ‘sulfate’.
• Notes: More prevalent in dry weather.

Micronutrients

Boron (B)

• Symptoms: Poor stem and root growth. Terminal (end) buds may die. Witches brooms sometimes form.
• Sources: Compounds containing the words ‘borax’ or ‘borate’.

Copper (Cu)

• Symptoms: Stunted growth. Leaves can become limp, curl, or drop. Seed stalks also become limp and bend over.
• Sources: Compounds containing the words ‘copper’, ‘cupric’ or ‘cuprous’.

Manganese (Mn)

• Symptoms: Growth slows. Younger leaves turn pale yellow, often starting between veins. May develop dark or dead spots. Leaves, shoots and fruit diminished in size. Failure to bloom.
• Sources: Compounds containing the words ‘manganese’ or ‘manganous’

Molybdenum (Mo)

• Symptoms: Older leaves yellow, remaining foliage turns light green. Leaves can become narrow and distorted.
• Sources: Compounds containing the words ‘molybdate’ or ‘molybdic’.
• Notes: Sometimes confused with nitrogen deficiency.

Zinc (Zn)

• Symptoms: Yellowing between veins of new growth. Terminal (end) leaves may form a rosette.
• Sources: Compounds containing the word ‘zinc’.
• Notes: Can become limited in higher pH.

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Tiny, pear-shaped; long antennae; two tubes projecting rearward from abdomen.

Host/Range: Most fruits and vegetables, flowers, ornamentals, shade trees. Found throughout North America.

Damage: Aphids suck plant sap, causing foliage to distort and leaves to drop; honeydew excreted on leaves supports sooty mold growth; feeding spreads viral diseases.

Control: Wash plants with strong spray of water; encourage native predators and parasites such as aphid midges, lacewings, and lady beetles; when feasible, cover plants with floating row cover; apply hot-pepper or garlic repellent sprays; for severe problems, apply horticultural oil, insecticidal soap, or neem.

2. Cabbage Maggot

Adults: 1⁄4-inch gray flies. Larvae: white, tapering maggots.

Host/Range: Cabbage-family crops. Found throughout North America.

Damage: Maggots tunnel in roots, killing plants directly or by creating entryways for disease organisms.

Control: Apply floating row covers; set out transplants through slits in tar-paper squares; avoid first generation by delaying planting; apply parasitic nematodes around roots; burn roots from harvested plants; mound wood ashes or red pepper dust around stems.

3. Caterpillers

Soft, segmented larvae with distinct, harder head capsule; six legs in front, fleshy false legs on rear segments.

Host/Range: Many fruits and vegetables, ornamentals, shade trees. Range varies with species.

Damage: Caterpillars chew on leaves or along margins; droppings soil the produce; some tunnel into fruits.

Control: Encourage native predators, parasites; hand pick; apply floating row covers; spray with Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) or spinosad.

4. Cutworms

Fat, 1-inch-long, gray or black segmented larvae; active at night.

Host/Range: Most early vegetable and flower seedlings, transplants. Found throughout North America.

Damage: Cutworms chew through stems at ground level; they may completely devour small plants; most damaging in May and June.

Control: Use cutworm collars on transplants; delay planting; hand pick cutworms curled below soil surface; scatter bran baits mixed with Btk (B.t. var. kurstaki) and molasses before planting.

5.  Japanese Beetle

Adults: metallic blue-green, 1⁄2-inch beetles with bronze wing covers. Larvae: fat, white grubs with brown heads.

Host/Range: Many vegetables and flowers, small fruit. Found in all states east of the Mississippi River.

Damage: Adults skeletonize leaves, chew flowers, may completely defoliate plants; larvae feed on lawn and garden plant roots.

Control: Shake beetles from plants in early morning; apply floating row covers; set out baited traps upwind of your garden on two sides and at least 30 feet away; apply milky disease spores or Herterorhabditis nematodes to soil; spray beetles with insecticidal soap.

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Infographic with Pest Images

Pest Information Source: OrganicGardening.com

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